It's not all hype. Whistler's bike park is big. What surprised me the most was how much safer it was than Sun Peaks. The big jump runs (A-Line, Freight Train, one or two others) have well marked lips, cheater lines around drops, and rollable tabletops instead of gaps. Only the double-black and pro-only trails had mandatory airs. These runs were pretty crowded but are 6-10 feet wide so passing is easy. The non jump runs were pretty empty, ranging from warmup cruisers (B-Line) to tight and technical (Angry Pirate, think Johns but steep and rooty).
I only had one big fall of the day. I tried to stretch a wall ride out to drop off the end instead of rolling down the side. Bad idea - never try to stretch a wall ride, you don't have the centrifugal force. I slid out 8 feet up, and unlike half pipes you come to a very sudden stop at the bottom. Ouch.
I spent most of the day riding with a 10 year old townie. The kid schooled me.
I've split the rest of my time between waiting out rain and riding xc trails. The xc trails are good, but not what I'm used to. There's just nowhere to go for a good, smooth 3000 foot climb. The terrain and rainfall don't really permit smooth singletrack. Instead you've got a bunch of rolling technical singletrack. It's good, but not easy. While some of my difficulty is just getting used to rainforest riding, Kill Me Thrill Me was tougher for me than Moore Fun and isn't considered especially challenging around there. There aren't many singletrack loops, either. I think it's due to land ownership issues but am not sure. Regardless, most rides start or end with some time on the main road down the valley floor.
All the local shops have a crappy free map and a good topo map. Take both as the free one does have good narrative descriptions.
Some locals warned me that dogs are sometimes stolen from the resort lots. Instead of tying them to the trucks, leave them at Doggie Day Care in Function Junction. It's a bit tucked away, but has made my stay much easier.
Overnight camping is allowed at the trailheads in the Whistler Interpretive Forest. They aren't the best spots, but there aren't many good free sites around.
An aside - is there a pro named Scott out of Seattle that I should know about? My first ride up was with a guy that, among other things, heckled Richey Schley from the lift. Really nice guy.